Java Jackets in 2014

Wed, Jun 25 2014 08:19
This is a great time to re-visit your favorite patterns. As we purge our stashes and pass on old patterns....there may be a few we can't let go of. The Java Jacket Pattern is one of my early designs I am still fond of.
One Pattern Many Voices-
 Currently, You can see this Design Challenge display, of Java Jacket designs at the Original Sewing & Quilt Expo coming to Raleigh, NC the month. Loretta Phipps did a great job creating the project, called One Pattern Many Voices and bringing it to fruition. She curated the exhibit with garments from her local ASG WNC Chapter.  Make sure to share your impressions of the display on our Facebook page.
My Java Jacket combining a historic woven cotton textile with linens and stenciled lining-

                   Lets look at some of the ways to update your favorite silhouettes.
Here are some highlights and garments from the Java Jacket Pattern and ideas for creating new ones.
Colored pencil sketches of vest & jacket versions
Design Play with Fabric & Color- One of the ways to explore  color and texture combinations for new garments is to use the garment silhouettes shown on the pattern envelope. Here is one of my color pencil sketches and another version collaged with fabric bits and a glue stick. I like to create Design Blanks and work with them for each garment style.
Fabric collaged drawing of Java Jackets
There is a 4-page Download available, with directions for creating a jumper using the Java Jacket pattern. It includes Design Blanks for a jacket, and jumper/coat length garment for you
 to color or collage with your ideas.

Scaling the Design: You can change the placement of horizontal line above the pockets
by using the grading lines there. If you are more petite, consider scaling down some of the garment details in the following ways:
1. Front bands pieces can be narrower.
2. The flaps above the pockets can be eliminated or narrowed
3. The sleeve can easily be smaller too. The small size sleeve can be added to a larger garment since it is applied onto of the bodice pieces and not set in like a traditional sleeve.

Revised Pattern Design-
Original Design? Revised Design?
Original Pattern Design-
 I love the feel of the jacket and knew I wanted more options. The revised edition has comfy, generous  pockets on the lower front incorporated into the design. Pocket Designs as Bags- Don't let lots of instruction for these pockets scare you....I love to illustrate everything so the how-to directions you get are clear! 
Make the pocket as a purse-

Great combo & frog closures-

I have made several as small purses and they are very fun to make and use.
They can be small collages of your favorite fabric combos and, like coffee, you may need more!
The 3 different pocket designs are detachable and can be added to other garment project designs.

Robin's Vest-
Closures & Detailing- The garment on the right, is a beautiful combination of country, summer prints and the design is polished off with some figure-8 frogs created from covered cording. One of my favorite Java Jackets was created by a high school student I had in my sewing class, Robin Rutherford. She combined printed fabrics with top bodice pieces she created with a pin-weaving technique. It was a long time ago...but I hope she is still wearing it!

Dixie's Java Vest-

Dixie Walker created this dramatic red
Java Vest,
stenciled with two of my stencil designs:
1. Intagliato and Off the Wall . She has used a combination of Jacquard Metallic (Lumiere) Paint colors for her printing. She printed the front bands and accented her garment with glass buttons. I love how the blue trim colors picked up in the printing colors.
Cynthia's Vest detail-
Cynthia Westmorland created a great Java Vest. Inspired by the coffee theme, she embroidered
coffee/tea cups and the names of her favorite coffee drinks. She enhanced the design with printed borders using my Deco Bird Stencil, the Kenya Stencil and coffee beans from the
 Te Y' Cafe' stencil
Simplified JAVA Vest-

SIMPLIFY the Design: I love the basic shape of this design and don't always want all the details in the pattern. Here is a vest created with a combination of vintage Kimono textiles and linens. I cut the neck edge  in a 'V' then made a bias cut collar in 2 layers to enhance the neckline. I kept the front edge plain with a facing, bound buttonholes and buttons covered in a contrasting Kimono fabric.

Focus on Detailing Techniques & Closures-
One of my favorite Java Vest garments below, had as a corded closure that laces in and out of the inset fabric shapes on the front. I wrapped the cording with a bias strip of fabric. The raw edge on the fabric adds an unexpected texture to the wrapping. The end of the cording was inserted as I pieced the bodice pieces, creating a look of the cording weaving in and out of the smaller fabric pieces. Stacking buttons is always an option to consider.

Framing buttons with fabric shapes, is another way of adding volume and more interest to a design. This lined and turned tab  on the right,  is a detail on the back seam of the vest.

Stitched canvas tabs-
New Designing with the Java Pattern-
I am working on several layering pieces using the Java pattern silhouette this season. Here is a current vest in progress. I started with the hand-stamped designs on canvas by Miles Frode. I made a collection of faced, stitched tabs that will be part of the finished design. In pinning the partially sewn pieces and the tab shapes to my

My new design in process-
dressform, I start to visualize how the design might evolve. More ideas come from seeing the pieces pinned on the dressform. I placed the shirt I want to wear with it on the form first so I can see how the layers will work together.

Original Java Jumper in Blues-
I combined a collection of vintage and commercial fabrics for this garment. The pockets button on in the design. The buttons are knotted fabric-directions for making your own are in the Download. The download is also available in printed form: Printed Form Download.
I love the feel of a long vest in the fall, and I'm going to make a new version for the next cold season. I plan to make the Java Jacket Pattern as a 3/4 length coat with a single dark color wool trimmed and lined with a bold, accent color that will show as the winds start to blow and the garment moves revealing the color along the edges. Oh no...I am starting to see fall.

It's still time for more summer sewing!
What is on your design table?  
Enjoy the day, Diane

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