New Pattern: THE VENTANA!
This is an exciting week for us...The Ventana, my new jacket & vest pattern design is now available! In Spanish, ventana translates to 'window'. What a perfect metaphor! This pattern IS the window....a beginning for ways to explore our love of sewing and fabrics. In celebration of our creative textile pursuits, we have created a new format for our pattern line, one I think you will enjoy.
|Our new look|
OUR NEW PATTERN DESIGN FORMAT- A new cover design to catch your eye- Diane's illustration style combined with Laura's awsome tech support is a winning combination! A larger, sturdier envelope with more color, more pattern info. on the back, and larger silhouette drawings. We're using sturdier pattern paper too (18 lb.transparent bond) and your directions are now in a spiral bound booklet for easy reference and use on your sewing table!
We hope you are as excited as we are!!
GARMENT as CANVAS:
Here are some ideas and details to get you going on your Ventana Garment-
I am always thinking about the garment as a canvas first: so as you look at the silhouette, think of it as a place to combine favorite fabrics and some of your favorite details.
ASYMMETRIC FRONTS: The left and right fronts are unique to each other, with a pocket hidden in the Left Front. I admit to being a 'lefty'...so that is where I want the pocket...you may want to swap the fronts to the opposite sides. The design will work well either way, and I think you will enjoy the pocket construction and the finished look.
|Tucks extended to armhole|
|collar size options |
COLLAR OPTIONS: Want a little collar but not to much? The pattern includes directions for adjusting the collar height for the finished look you want.
SHAPING with TUCKS: The silhouette of The Ventana is shaped by a series of curved tucks. You may want to add more...once you see how easy they are to make. They can also be extended out to the edges of the garment. On this lined linen version, I extended the tucks out to the edges of the armholes. The pattern includes a template for the tucks (brilliant Laura!), so no matter what size garment you are making, the template can be moved up and down to be the most flattering with your curves. Here are some of the versions I am excited about right now.
|Lined Lapped seams are pressed out to show the lining too. |
LAPPED SEAM CONSTRUCTION: This gives some depth to the edges...and more options for the directions you want to press and fold the seam allowances. On the neck edge above, the seam allowance is folded to show the lining as an accent.
SLEEVES: The sleeves repeat the tuck shapes in the bodice with a tuck down the back of the arm. An optional dart is included for underarm shaping. A shaped cuff end for an asymmetric fold back. Your lining would also show here.
|tabs on side seams-|
EDGE FINISHES: TO LINE...OR NOT TO LINE? TO BIND...OR NOT TO BIND? The Ventana is perfect for those fabrics you are saving with great selvedges and raw edges! My plum color wool version had great edges to start with. It is a heavy knit wool, and the cut edges are stable and great too. The design lends itself to a favorite binding accent too. I am printing my own bias pieces to use for the next one.
|collar with raw edge |
Here is a sneak peak of my printed black wool binding! This one is printed with my Wrought Iron Fence Stencil and Pewter Lumiere Fabric Paint. I am loving this look! For more direction for printing on working with Metallic paints and printing on wool: come back and check out my December Blog.
|Washed Linen Version|
|lining makes great accent|
|Side tabs are folded out for accent-|
The LINED VENTANA: This washed, linen vest version was a perfect combination with the silk tafetta stripe inside and peaking out along the edges. It changed for the better when I wet the finished garment and twisted it vertically and let it dry. I love the texture and shaping it added.
CLOSURE DESIGN: I placed ties on The Ventana with a smart buttonhole detail (so the ties can be on the front or on the inside). In the pattern you will get some ideas for using a favorite frog or a prized, vintage button as a focal point in the lapel folds on the front. Think about how a button and a tie might work...you may not need a buttonhole after all.
I know when I need to stop blogging and get sewing on the next Ventana it is a good thing!
I am looking forward to seeing yours, so please share them with us! DIANE
Fall Sewing: Start with a Studio Vest-
As I pack away my summer favorites, I'm drawn to richer colors and warmer layers. One of my favorite studio vest patterns is the Walkabout #113. Here are 2 in my collection.
The version in cranberry red and black is wool jersey stitched to a black under layer of polar fleece. The wool jersey stretched, and I enhancing the surface design more by cutting holes in the jersey layer. I added some bias strips of a print down the front and cut the edge of the polar fleece in a zigzag. A tab, printed with the Jakarta Stencil, finishes the front and holds the tie in place.
The collage version above, in rust and cremes, is a Taos inspired piece. It's a combination of painted and rusted fabrics, photo transfers, raw edges, printed chiffon and lots of stitching on a linen base. I used the Russet and Pewter Lumiere paints.
Studio Accessories- How about some new pin cushions for your worktable? These 2, made from my
Pin Cushion Icons Pattern, were a delightful afternoon of design play. I printed the linen one with a rubber stamp first...and added some of my favorite sticks to the top. The pattern shows how to create bent wire ornaments with your favorite beads....mimicking a collection of hatpins. The square pin cushion design is fun to make: I started by stenciling some silk dupioni and linen with the bamboo designs on my Jakarta Stencil. I combined the fabrics I printed to several others then stitched and flipped to an under layer for each of the 4 sides.
Both pin cushions are weighted with sand or gravel inside the bottom. A cardboard or plastic insert can be added for a flat bottom. I twisted 2 silk fabrics together then knotted them for the top accent.
More Metallic for Fall-
I loved the shape of these shoes...but wanted less rust and more silvery metallic. Here's how I do it:
Lightly ruff up the leather surface with some fine sandpaper. Cover any areas you do not want to paint with masking tape. I placed it around the edges to protect the sole from paint. This part takes some time..but worth it. Using a wet sponge, I dab and rub a light application of Lumiere's Pewter color onto the shoe. Start with a side...not the toe so you get a sense of how to get what you want before you do the top! I worked quickly with a sponge and a rag. I like to let the shoes dry 1-2 days. After they are bone dry, I finish them by applying and buffing with a light application of Carnuba car wax....Okay, you can use a clear shoe wax too. Suede shoes look beautiful painted or stenciled and can look embossed. I would use a shoe spray instead of a wax to finish the suede shoes.
My finished Taos Jacket-
I loved wearing this new version of my Snap Dragon Jacket to New Mexico for the the Design Outside the Lines Retreat in Taos!
Here is finished jacket. For more construction step-by-step on how the jacket was printed (with my new gate stencil design) and how the lapel design evolved, see my previous blog below.
I hope you're enjoying Fall where you are, Diane
It's Fall! New Mexico Inspiration-
I have been drawn to the same green gate, just outside of the Mabel Dodge Luhan House in Taos, NM for several years.
|Making the grid lapels- |
|Playing with printing the|
I have just turned some of my favorite sketches of the gate into a new stencil design: The Santa Fe Gate, that I am printing with this month in preparation for a reunion with that special place for a DOL Retreat later this month. Snap Dragon Jackets- The green gate image has inspired grid 'fence' lapels (above) to expand on the design. I wanted a scrappy look on the lapels of raw edges and some finished. They would be beautiful made from any finished trim for a more polished look. I laid them out on the lapel pattern pieces (above) to get the shapes. Once the pieces were sewn, I painted them with the faded green color I so vividly remember. If you don't have an intuitive sense about color, mixing colors can be tricky.
I find a color wheel is a good teaching tool and can help take some of the guessing out of the process and help you get the color you want. This new jacket, started with a dropcloth piece of canvas by my son, Miles Frode, to which I have added this new gate stencil design. As you can see in the lapel photo, I made extra small pieces to in some of the seams of the design. I will share the finished piece soon. The pattern has ideas for creating your own unique lapels that all snap off, with snaptape, to become an accessory.
|The printing is meant to fade in and out on the fabric surface.|
|small lapel scraps for other seams-|
|Printing to add interest along the side slits and wrist of the sleeve is easier to do before the garment construction. |
Here is a more finished version of the Snap Dragon Pattern in a double -sided linen. The accent trim on the lapel pieces is vintage drapery...very subtle and lovely. As you can see...the lapel ends can be wrapped around and snapped together to create this beautiful scarf look too. I can tell I need a new one of these in wool next!
|Laura Kinsman's stenciled shirt-sweet!|
Laura Kinsman, my favorite sewist geek friend, has combined the Santa Fe Gate Stencil with her button jar for a very cool updated shirt! Love the results! It has got me thinking about what else I could combine it with too.
Wrought Iron Fence Stencil- Another new stencil design ready for fall printing. Can there ever be to many fences & gate stencils? I think not.... Look at how cool it is on this linen shirt!
I have used the Pewter Lumiere Fabric Paint to print this shirt. The design is set up to easily repeat if you want to make a continuous fence. I am loving how it looks printed back to back (on the shirt back) and as an asymmetrical feature on the front. Remember when you print to think about how you will wear the garment. Folding up the cuffs and popping the collar always influences how and where I print designs on a shirt.
A new set of buttons and I am on my way out the door in this one!!!
I hope you are enjoying what is on your design table this week, Diane
|Bugs in Flight Stencil|
|Linens & drapey rayons are a pleasing combine for this design. |
summer top, a 3/4 sleeve wrap or a vest layer. Here are some favorite Dragonfly garment designs. The pattern comes in 2 lengths and 2 widths. It has 3 sizes of insets included for the front closures...so there are lots of options for combinations and placement. I used rubber stamps and stencils on the purple and striped one to the left with some great vintage buttons to accent the inset tabs.
This coffee theme vest, stenciled with Te y' Cafe Stencil, is decorated with coffee theme buttons and rubber stamped tabs on the front. You might enjoy creating your own theme vest.
|Making center panels first-|
|Sometimes I like to begin a Dragonfly design by creating the front & back center panels first. With this linen version, I played with a different closure idea for the front. Now I am ready to decide on the side panels to relate to the starting pieces.|
|Buttons as end detail on ties-|
| The Dragonfly is a flattering shape for your favorite techniques and materials. It is a light evening wrap this summer....and perfect to pair with your favorite jeans. I'm going to make it as a winter wrap in wool jersey when the cool weather moves in. Please share the ones you make with us for our Facebook albums.|
Starting with a Pattern-
Creating a New Studio
Welcome! Congratulations to those of you who managed to find me online AND in person. I have been working this past month moving into my new studio and helping get a new website launched. (thank you Paul! link?) As you can see, I've been building tables, installing shelves and moving into my studio at 238 N. Main Street in Ashland, Oregon. My new digs will be a working studio, intimate classroom space and textile library. I'm look forward to some of you visiting and sharing some studio time!
Space is always a great metaphor for me. Moving into any place in an opportunity to re-visit the choices we make and clear the way for new priorities.
It is the beginning of the adventure is imagining what it can be.
After the carpet was dry and the walls freshly painted, my beginning strategy was to get to know my new space.
I gravitate towards the 2 tall windows at one end which get sunlight all afternoon....I sat there, at different times during the day, imagining how I might work there. I‘ve been taking my time: GOING SLOW..... just moving basic furniture around until it feels right before I bring in more tools and materials to fill the shelves. Everything that comes in has to be functional and/or something I REALLY want to look at. That’s it! No exceptions. It needs to ‘feel’ spacious...no matter what.
For maximum flexibility, I make moveable, large tabletops and canvas covered bulletin boards to mount on the walls. I have some small tables with wheels, shelving and good lights.
Today my shingle is up...and I am working in the studio!
The winter, afternoon sun was streaming in as I welcomed the first class in last week. For my class schedule, check my Teaching page calendar. It was a very fun afternoon...full of ideas, projects and laughing. A perfect beginning.
Sewing Design Play-
Theres' always time to make a cozy winter jacket.
Here are 2 SnapDragons (my pattern #117) in wool.
One of my favorite features is the detachable lapel/collar pieces.
Black Cashmere with Red & White-
I combined red and white lapel pieces to this black, cashmere.
Hand stitching with white bamboo fiber and vintage black rayon seam tape accent the lapels. Snaptape gives lots of wearing options including wrapping around like a cowl, or removing the lapels all together.
Gray Wool with Batik-
In this gray wool version, I have 2 sets of collar/lapels. the lapels snap on and off for lots of wearing options an inter-changeable collar pieces. The butterscotch color batik is combined with the gray wool and used as a lining. Ribbons and other printed fabrics are layered over the black snaptape to give the checkerboard look to the snaptape edges.
The snaps allow for some creative, asymmetrical wearing options too.
Back to the Studio for some project time!
I look forward to sharing lots of design, inspiration
and creativity with you. Please sign my guestbook- (pattern share giveway?) or in newsletter?
Come by next time you are in town.
Java Jackets in 2014
|One Pattern Many Voices-|
|My Java Jacket combining a historic woven cotton textile with linens and stenciled lining-|
Lets look at some of the ways to update your favorite silhouettes.
Here are some highlights and garments from the Java Jacket Pattern and ideas for creating new ones.
|Colored pencil sketches of vest & jacket versions|
|Fabric collaged drawing of Java Jackets|
to color or collage with your ideas.
Scaling the Design: You can change the placement of horizontal line above the pockets
by using the grading lines there. If you are more petite, consider scaling down some of the garment details in the following ways:
1. Front bands pieces can be narrower.
2. The flaps above the pockets can be eliminated or narrowed
3. The sleeve can easily be smaller too. The small size sleeve can be added to a larger garment since it is applied onto of the bodice pieces and not set in like a traditional sleeve.
|Revised Pattern Design-|
|Original Pattern Design-|
|Make the pocket as a purse-|
|Great combo & frog closures-|
I have made several as small purses and they are very fun to make and use.
They can be small collages of your favorite fabric combos and, like coffee, you may need more!
The 3 different pocket designs are detachable and can be added to other garment project designs.
|Dixie's Java Vest-|
Dixie Walker created this dramatic red
stenciled with two of my stencil designs:
1. Intagliato and Off the Wall . She has used a combination of Jacquard Metallic (Lumiere) Paint colors for her printing. She printed the front bands and accented her garment with glass buttons. I love how the blue trim colors picked up in the printing colors.
|Cynthia's Vest detail-|
coffee/tea cups and the names of her favorite coffee drinks. She enhanced the design with printed borders using my Deco Bird Stencil, the Kenya Stencil and coffee beans from the
Te Y' Cafe' stencil.
|Simplified JAVA Vest-|
SIMPLIFY the Design: I love the basic shape of this design and don't always want all the details in the pattern. Here is a vest created with a combination of vintage Kimono textiles and linens. I cut the neck edge in a 'V' then made a bias cut collar in 2 layers to enhance the neckline. I kept the front edge plain with a facing, bound buttonholes and buttons covered in a contrasting Kimono fabric.
Focus on Detailing Techniques & Closures-
One of my favorite Java Vest garments below, had as a corded closure that laces in and out of the inset fabric shapes on the front. I wrapped the cording with a bias strip of fabric. The raw edge on the fabric adds an unexpected texture to the wrapping. The end of the cording was inserted as I pieced the bodice pieces, creating a look of the cording weaving in and out of the smaller fabric pieces. Stacking buttons is always an option to consider.
Framing buttons with fabric shapes, is another way of adding volume and more interest to a design. This lined and turned tab on the right, is a detail on the back seam of the vest.
|Stitched canvas tabs-|
I am working on several layering pieces using the Java pattern silhouette this season. Here is a current vest in progress. I started with the hand-stamped designs on canvas by Miles Frode. I made a collection of faced, stitched tabs that will be part of the finished design. In pinning the partially sewn pieces and the tab shapes to my
My new design in process-
Original Java Jumper in Blues-
I combined a collection of vintage and commercial fabrics for this garment. The pockets button on in the design. The buttons are knotted fabric-directions for making your own are in the Download. The download is also available in printed form: Printed Form Download.
I love the feel of a long vest in the fall, and I'm going to make a new version for the next cold season. I plan to make the Java Jacket Pattern as a 3/4 length coat with a single dark color wool trimmed and lined with a bold, accent color that will show as the winds start to blow and the garment moves revealing the color along the edges. Oh no...I am starting to see fall.
It's still time for more summer sewing!
What is on your design table?
Enjoy the day, Diane
Airplane Stencil gone Geometric-
Designing with stencils is a combination of the image you start with and the inventive ways you print it. On every new design, I work to include a variety shapes and sizes that will continue to offer variety as you print with the stencil. My Paper Airplane Stencil was the beginning of a Birthday garment (on the right), that is featured in my article in the current June/July issue of Vogue Pattern Magazine. The article covers several of the sewing techniques I used to create the unique details in the shirt. Click HERE to see the preview. For more about the process of creating my shirt design, see this past blog. After the initial idea for the stencil design, I'm exploring a more geometric approach to printing with it.
Vary Paint Amounts: The Jacquard paint colors combined for the stenciling in oranges yellows and reds, is printed with a heavier application of paint- and intentionally not working to cover completely. Playing with paint amounts and printing pressure can yield variety in your results.
Adding Printing to graphic fabrics: I found a pin-stripe piece that was crying for airplanes...and a grey and white background cotton that I could enhance with the Airplane Stencil.
Drawing on Stenciled Fabric: Using the Tee Juice Fabric Pens, and some straight edges, it is easy to create additional line elements on the fabric you print. I like making a combination of thick & thin lines and broken lines... which look like stitching.
Here is a preview of these garments-
The green is a sheer, vintage kimono fabric with subtle details and metal buttons.
The Artist Shirt is a dyed and painted cotton sheet pieced with 3 other fabrics. the orange makes a great accent for the garment edges.
Finishing for each garment is very different. The choice of materials can determines a casual, raw edge look or a more polished finish.
Make a spring shirt.....and explore a new pattern design or re-visit an old favorite. Enjoy! Diane
FABRIC PRINTING: New Raven Stencil
This new design, inspired by my Wing n' A Prayer Fabric, is quickly becoming one of my favorites. Here is some of my current printing with this new design, and some ideas for you to explore in your own surface designing.
Think about a stencil as a collection of shapes that can be separated for more design options. I use Post-Its to temporarily cover areas of the design while I print others. They are easy to move around and work really well.
Here, in black, is what the whole stencil looks like. Note: I did add a moon using the circle on my Global Shapes stencil. You can see how the post-its let me get a crisp definition of color for the different sections of the design!
FENCES & FRAMES: I'm drawn to the sticks framing the design. They make a border at the hem or edge of a garment. In the fabric piece on the dressform, I combined the sticks with the lined grid shape at the bottom to create this geometric design. I think I'll take it further by shaping the front edge of the fabric in a zig-zag, following the shapes I printed. The more I looked at this part of the design, It started to look like wooden horse head! (Ah...she sneaks the Year of the Horse in there again.....). You can see the printed design is the stencil upside down here on black canvas. I made this small frame in green below, by printing the sticks across the top of the design facing each other. Hand or machine stitching would be another technique to add to borders printed with the stick shapes.
STRIPPED FABRICS: Printing in between the stripes is a great way to create a new design. Masking tape, covering one set of stripes on the fabric, or Post Its can be used on the stencil. You could create a collection of complimentary fabrics (all on the same stripe), by using different parts of the stencil for each piece. The different pieces could be used for each pattern pieces of your garment.
Definitely play with different size stripes and other prints to create
your own designs.
At the left, see the yellow Post Its covering the stencil (instead of tape on the fabric)-this gives the repeating design (in green) each time I print. Below are more parts of the stencil printed into the same stripe.
FABRIC PAINTS: I am using the Jacquard Textile Paints for my printing, I especially like the metallics.
Stencils easily lend themselves to this type of printing. Once the images is printed on one side...clean it off, flip it over and print from the other side. Magic happens! The space created in between the birds on the left, seems to be a heart! Ahhhh!
PRINT A SHIRT: I love working into a remake with my stencil designs- On this one below, I started by printing the collar tips.....see the part of the stencil I used below on the left...and the results on the right. A very appealing design detail!
Next, I pieced a black panel onto the lower back of the pin-strip shirt and stenciled the birds coming up on the back. Wow!! love the look...and the silver 'triangles' are the tip of the beak.......
|Wings in Silver, bits of Blue & White on Grey Fabric|
Spring Sewing: SHIRTS!
|Stenciled linen shirt by Leslie Gelber|
every season, it is my hands-down favorite garment.
In addition to endless re-makes, I'm always checking out new shirt patterns and revisiting some of my own. Seeing this linen version of my Nuevo Shirt Pattern #109, by Leslie Gelber has me inspired to revisit the pattern, explore some of the variations and create some new shirts. Leslie used a unique printed linen (the printed design is a flat pair of old jeans) to which she added her own twist: stenciled details and covered buttons from the same stenciled fabric. Great choice: A bold move with successful results! Leslie used my Big Hopper Stencil to accent & play into the print.
|Sleeve detail on Leslie's shirt|
Pattern Details- My basic shirt silhouette has an asymmetric shaped collar, an inset pocket, 1-sided cuff and 2 front bodice variations. Here are several shirts I created with the Nuevo Shirt pattern. Hand-dyed silk noile and contrasting rayon give this one in pinks a more dramatic look. Button placement changes
|button placement changes the look of the front|
I stenciled the underlayer (of quilting cotton) with the Eycalyptus Stencil and the organza outer layer with the Bugs in Flight. I cut the cotton front using the regular, flat front option (I added the a shaped edge).Next, I wrinkled the organza on top...pressing the wrinkles down for more interest. A collection of buttons became surface design as well as the closure of the shirt. The collar is one layer of printed silk organza with a thin binding from the quilting print finishing the edge. I like to add interest by changing the shape at the hem and added some extra seams too. The second front option has a unique, inset pocket design too.
Collar Design Ideas- The pattern comes with 2 collar designs. Either end of the asymmetrical collar in the pattern can be placed on the fold, allowing for 2 different symmetrical options. You can also recut the top edge to change the shape. I layered 2 collars together on this blue stenciled shirt. After brush painting with copper...I stenciled with the Deco Bird Stencil in the turquoise to create the surface design. I also folded the original collar and used it as a cuff instead!!!
Remember, most limitations are in your mind.....and new design is about fresh thinking.
|Double collar with new shaped edge|
Pattern Changes for more Nuevo Garments-
Here are some easy ways to create variations with your Nuevo Shirt Pattern. These pattern design ideas I've sketched out for you are available. Click here to get it: Nuevo Pattern Ideas Download.
I'd love to see the ones you create this spring! Diane
A SPRING BOARD-
|My Design Board for Spring Projects-|
What is calling from your stash to be next on your on your design table----------------------------
Play & Risk can take your work to the next level too.
The Sewing Expo-
I saw some great FaultLines Garments Pattern #118-
Here are 2 we got photos of at the show. We are creating Facebook albums and would love more photos of what you are creating with my patterns to share with everyone-so don't be shy, send them our way.
First is Susan Chesney's sweet combination. She used a knit and added an unexpected silk pieces at the neck with a piece of the knit she stenciled (with the Te' y Cafe stencil) in green. The printing is very subtle...and is a great reminder that it doesn't have to be bold to enhance your design. Also note: Susan, a petite/busty bodytype, made the undershirt as a vest, outer-layer. It is great on her and really works with her print blouse. She has a great eye for design and fabric combinations.
|Susan's printed collar -|
|Gwen's FaultLines Vest-|
|Dana Marie in her stenciled Tee.|
I think you are right...more photos at the show next year! Back to the Studio, Diane
Year of the Horse-
COATS & COLLARS-
I have been making some coats this winter. My Heart-Felt Coat pattern #106 is my basic shape I like to play with. Here are several that might inspire your winter sewing. The pattern includes several pocket designs and knot buttons for closures. This magenta
melton wool is combined with polar fleece and decorative machine stitching accents.
Sylvie Baroux, of Ashland, OR has created this beautiful black and white wool version on the bias with stenciled details and sculptural cuffs with elastic loops. She used a beautiful silk for binding and accents. For her unlined coat, she used a wool that has a woven design so both sides are beautiful and add to the design of the coat.
We'd love to see your Heart-Felt Coats-Share them with us so we can add you to our Facebook Album. I find myself reaching for this pattern when the cold season sets in. I like the shape and the variations seem to suggest a new direction each winter. I have made it in linen as a spring coat. The closure can be the simple knot in felted wool...as in the brown coat.
COLLARS- Collars can make a coat!
Any coat can be re-fashioned just by tweaking the collar. Here is a favorite grey raincoat below. I made the collar more textured by pulling the front and the back of the collar away from the interfacing. After re-pinning it and pressing it down again, I added hand stitching, a bit of accent fabric and new buttons. Love the results!!
No matter what pattern I start with, I like to change some of the details. My new coat below, started with Miyake Vogue pattern 2038. I made my own bias collar using a Japanese cotton gauze gives this navy cashmere coat an unexpected, playful edge. The added recycled fabrics are in shapes I cut and inset into the surface. Three, different shaped bound buttonholes...each with a unique vintage button finish my design. The addition of a lightweight fleece makes this feel like wearing a cloud!
|......bending wire is like drawing.|
Drawing the Arty Fabric-
INSPIRED DETAILS- Playing into the design on the fabric can suggest cool details. See how I have made one of the pages, in the Morning Pages Fabric, into a zippered pocket below, with leather lacing as a pull. Lots of topstitching and zipper pieces as trim, metal eyelets and grommets all build on a design with this fabric. This sculptural collar is the beginning of a new shirt. I'm using the Morning Pages fabric as the accent piece and will fold other solids and textured pieces into the design.
A great way to get yourself into a new way of working is- to start in a different way: For me, it is making the detail I am most excited about first and letting it be the seed that grows the rest of the project!
This shoulder bag design is a combination of 3 canvas fabrics,
a jumbo snap and webbing for the strap. I started with my Pacific Purse pattern. I've made 2 more sizes of each pattern by copying the pattern pieces then adding 2 sets of extra seam allowances to each piece. This gives more sizes of the bags shapes in the pattern. This is a good base pattern with 3 unique construction methods to work with.
Love & Fabric-
I can always go on and on about what cool sewing tricks that happened along the way...but what REALLY happened was I gave myself uninterrupted time to think about my son. I looked forward to spending time in my thoughts about him as I working on it every day. We have come a long way he and I....and now I get to be inspired, appreciate and celebrate how he is flowering and growing his life. I don't know about you...but there are times I struggle to hold onto my connection with my children....wondering what I can do to keep them close as they turn away to find themselves in the world.
Well, making his shirt has been the perfect way to gift us both this season.
Love to You & Yours this Season, Diane
SNAPDRAGON #117: Winter Sewing-
|Melton wool SnapDragon-|
|Lapels and sleeves removed, makes a versatile vest|
|A pieced wool lapel in progre|
|Easy Fabric Buttonhole-|
|A new Felted wool lapel/scarf-|
Not a snaptape fan yet? Here is the link to my snaptape. Let me change your mind! Notice the snaptape on the grey jacket above? Looks like checkerboard? I added small pieces of trims (ribbons and fabric strips) in between the snaps. To do this, insert one end of the trim under the snaptape as you sew the first side down. Next fold them over the top of the snaptape and topstitch down the second side. Add trim if needed to cover the edge.
Printing the Snaptape- It is easy to print snaptape in order to change the color or make the tape a more interesting texture. I like to print the snaptape with metallic colors.
|Copper metallic paint was used to 'age' this black snapetape-|
1. Rub a sponge, holding paint, across the the snaptape. you can rub back and forth or in one direction.
2. Rub one color on the tape and let it dry. Rub a second color lightly across the top to add depth.
3. Lay a stencil over the snaptape and print part of the design on the tape. I'm using the Abraxsas stencil below.
4. Adding an extra coating of paint on the end of the tape will seal the end and keep it from raveling.
5. Experiment, experiment!
|Stenciling white snaptape, letting snaps stick up through stencil so it will lay flat-|
|Canvas SnapDragon Jacket-|
This Canvas SnapDragon started with a used, painters dropcloth. I'm loving the lightly sprayed surface! I added the lapel pattern piece to the front of the pattern before I cut it out. Next, I made a sculptural collar in several pieces. The black collar is printed and collaged using my painted snaptape as a surface design trim ad well as a closure. The pocket, sewn on the black linen fabric, was inset into the jacket front. I love handstitching and it is the finishing detail that makes the design.
Black Canvas SnapDragon: The canvas version below, was made from a hand-printed canvas: a collaboration with my son, Miles Frode, an artist and poet. He discharged the canvas design then I stenciled on top in silver and pewter metallic paints. Stenciling is a technique I frequently use to tie a design together. I added the lapel piece as one with the front
again and used my bias, tube collar from my FaultLines Pattern. 2 jumbo snaps work as the closure. The sleeve in this design has a seam on the back of the arm....very flattering, comfortable and a great place for added design elements. Here you can see a sleeve out flat....
|Collaboration Canvas Dragonfly-|
It is the perfect design for exploring cuff variations. In this one above, you can see the finished cuff end has a curve edge on the right side...and a straight line on the left. A printed fabric has been added up the seam as an accent, and as a facing for the foldback.
|Here is the finished sleeve design folded back-|
|Link to more images of this cashmere design-|
SO.....What is YOUR SnapDragon going to look like? We're looking forward to sharing pictures of your jackets & vests!
The Southwest Stencil Collection-
| La Mesas Stencil Design printed on a textured cotton-|
|Mesa and Glyph Stencils printed on chambray cotton-|
White is the magic bullet! In the printing at the top of this blog, I printed a thin layer of white first, letting it dry. This allows other colors to sit on top, without them mixing to become a pastel.You can see how well this works on the sunrise above, where I added a metallic gold and silver on top of the white layer. If you like my paint choices here, I have put together a Taos Paint Set of the 5 colors I am printing with here, and a second set of my favorite neutrals.
Neutrals in your paint kit- My Grey Scale Paint Set includes 5 shades and tints plus black and white. these neutrals can create the mood of your printing and change the colors you start into your own, signature color combinations. If color mixing is new for you, a color wheel is a great help and I suggest you add one to your tool kit. Here is the link to the Color Wheel I prefer. It is a great teaching wheel and will help you build your color mixing confidence. The more you play with mixing color, the better you get. It is like cooking....there is an intuition about it at some point.
|Mesas & Glyphs|
|Covering the stencil with post-its to print parts-|
|Pottery Shard Stencil with hand-stitching and Glyphs Stencil in the background-|
This printing, on the left, of the Pottery Shards and Glyphs on a handwoven cotton, gives a very different textured look to the designs.
I am really seeing lots of possible variations as I play with these images! I will continue my printing explorations with these new designs and sharing pieces with you as I go. I recommend that you keep a collection of sample fabrics you print. It is easy to make another pieces when you are excited about how your stenciling is turning out in the moment. It will be your personal resource library for future projects. Diane
Winter Studio Vest-
an extra large heavy cotton mens
#2 Second Sweatshirt- loved all the grommets in the raglan sleeves!
#3 Print Tee-for accent details.
This is the magic piece. When you see the teeshirt...you may not be attracted to it...but look how well it works in small amounts as trim!
|#3 printed tee for trim|
|print tee as an inset pocket-|
You may want to play without a pattern, and it is easy to start then lay what you have on top of a basic pattern body to check size and see how it is going. I have used my Torrii Pattern for this purpose with other garments. It is a versatile design with 3 different lengths, and it makes a cozy 3/4 length vest in wool jersey too.
I have to say, every time I remake garments, it expands the way I think and apply my sewing skills. There are always new options that present themselves as the new design emerges. Think about it as casual sewing.......and in some ways, it is like sketching. If this process is a new idea for you, I encourage you to jump in!!! It is great fun! Of course...you probably can't have just one.
I'd love to see your studio vest...so share!
Warm in Ashland, Diane
A most FABULOUS FaultLines!
I have to share her new FaultLines! OMG is this beautiful or what?!?!? She is wearing it in New York as we speak....and I know she must be getting stopped on every corner. Her fabric combination is fabulous....Want some of the the beautiful striped fabric in her garment? It may still be available from marcytilton.com. Here is the link.
My 1 Pattern Design Challenge: We grow so much in our designing when we stay with one thing as a constant....like one pattern. I can never emphasis this enough. One of the best ways to explore and actually see your design skills grow is by making lots of pieces from the same pattern throughout the year. I have used 1 pattern for a whole year....through 4 seasons, which was such a great process. It really challenged my creativity to new heights. FaultLines is a great design for this design challenge. We are currently offering FaultLine on sale if you want to add it to your studio play.
I am enjoying sharing the garments you're all creating from the FaultLines in my Facebook Albums....so keep them coming. Have a great day in the studio! Diane
Designing a FaultLines Garment-
I am re-visiting each design in my line of sewing patterns this season. I will be sharing construction tips & design ideas to inspire your creative sewing projects.
|FaultLines #118 -|
|Wool Jersey Undershirt-|
This lightly padded one is perfect for winter layering under larger coats. I added a small bias collar in silk organza to the neck edge of the vest for a bit of extra warmth.
Great Proportions for pairing with pants or skirts: If you don't think a short jacket is for you....give the FaultLines a try. With the visual break line at the short jacket, this design, full of flattering angles, gives the effect of a longer torso and leg-especially if you create the undershirt and pant or skirt in the same fabric. Use this link to order your FaultLines #118 on sale now. I love working with these pieces as a vest. In recycled sweaters or felt.
It's just a great layering garment for our winter wardrobes.
|Felted FaultLines Jacket-J.Manzone-|
|FaultLines with tube collar-|
|vintage kimono fabric-|
|Hmong Fabric Jacket with suiting undershirt.|
In Brown Linen- Each piece can be textured or collaged, like this brown linen version below. I used the woven ribbon trim and white hand-stitching as an accent. The sleeve seam is visible on the back of the arm, and a place for piping or other accents inseam or at the wrist end. For this jacket, I pressed the wrinkles in and pressed each piece to a layer of fusible interfacing to hold the texture in place before before adding stitching lines. Notice I pressed the wrinkled lines in different directions in each piece to add more interest to the design. Each piece is lined separately. When they are ready to be combined, I have finished the hem edges and fronts, leaving the shoulder, side seams and armholes open. This way of working lets you design and see how all the pieces will relate.
|FaultLines Jacket in progress-|
I like to keep the pieces pinned on my dressform as I work on one. For more inspiration: See the album of FaultLines Garments on my Facebook page, and send us a photo of your FaultLines to add!
I hope you're having a great day in the Studio! Diane
Designing a Stencil-
The process of designing a stencil is very creative and organic for me. I thought you might enjoy knowing how I come up with the designs in my stencil line. So join me in the garden and see where my Crickets and Leaves Stencil began. This view of long, overlapping folding iris and gladiolas leaves planted the initial seed for the design. I want to create a stencil with leaves in an arrangement that worked the lights and dark in a different way.
|step 1: painting leave shapes|
The best way for me to get this feel is to start by brushing some leave shapes on paper. I bring some of the leaves to the table and paint some sheets of leaves to get the feel.
|step 2: crickets may be part of this design|
|Step 4: Adding the crickets and defining more variation in the darks and lights for a more dynamic design.|
Step 5- (Below) Once the overall design feels complete, I clean-up the spacing and corners with white-out and a small brush. This is when I revisit the connections between the areas that will be cut away. I am thinking about how it will be to print and looking for edges that might be vulnerable to wear and tear.
Step 6- AH! the magic of computers and wonderful people with the skills to create on them! After Laura, takes my design into the computer and creates a vector file, I get out my red pen (photo below) and get very picky about any subtle changes that need to happen to keep the design true to my vision and viable as a stencil. Once those changes are made, the image is uploaded to the laser company for manufacture. So the stroll in my garden that inspired the original idea .....has been transformed into something you can enjoy your studio too! I am playing with the Crickets and Leaves Stencil on different weights of fabric this week. Sound like fun? Order yours here. It is also part of our current 4 bug stencil special.
DESIGN IDEAS with the Crickets and Leaves Stencil-
• Work with metallic colors on dark canvas
• Print the leaves up then down and stagger for an overall print.
• use the leaves as a backdrop: print in a pale color, then print a second layer in a bolder color.
• Add hand stitching lines to accent after printing the stencil.
Enjoy Your Studio time, Diane
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