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CAWFS- Blue Flannel Shirt

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Doesn’t everyone need a flannel shirt?…and I’m talkin’ GOOD flannel. Remember: Garment sewing is all about the fabric that feels good to wear. This beautiful collection of blue flannels is from marcytilton.com.                                                  3 is my magic number of fabrics for this combo sewing project.

YOUR BEST FABRICS-

There is no reason to use fabric you don’t love! your time and ideas are worth the good stuff…and the pieces you think you should save until you have the PERFECT idea…well lets me tell you…

Say what you want…but making the first pass at a pattern with funky fabric (just to try it out…) begs the question: Will you ever make the 2nd garment? The one you really want? …the one after the ‘test’ one?

MY SHIRT-

I started  by sewing some pieces together and draping it on the dressform to get a feel for the direction of my shirt. I like the scale of the piecing and use the pattern pieces to cut out the fronts when the pieces are big enough. 

For the basic shape, I used Lynn Mizono’s Vogue Pattern #1274 and then started making changes:

      • Cut neckline front for a V with a smaller collar. I usually cut collars on the bias for a better shape and drape (no matter what the pattern piece indicates).As more pieces are combined, I fold edges and in this photo (above) was playing with the scale of the collar, what edges to place the trim fabric on and possible pocket shape and placement. 

  • The piecing and squares in the flannel gave me the idea to add the black squares down the front to make the button closing more interesting.
  • Back on the bias? Notice the main piece for the back was cut on the bias. When the fabric is tightly woven, even bias cut fabric can hang well in the finished design.
  • Open side seams. The shape of the sides adds weight and wearing options. To keep it less bulky, I made smaller flanges in this shirt. These flaps can be tucked in or folded to the outside and ties to the front or back, or left loose.
  • Waiting to cut out the sleeves until the garment fronts and back are together, gives more design options too.
  • This pocket was cut from the extra fabric pieced in the beginning…and adds balance to the solid fabric side of the shirt.

• Shaping the hemline: A try-on can inform the length and shapes at the hem. I keep my options open and wait to decide this until I get there. It will have alot to do with volume of fabric in the piece and the overall presentation of the garment on your proportions/stature.

TOO MANY IDEAS ?!!!!! The more you design, the more ideas will come to you everytime you create! It doesn’t mean they all have to be expressed in the one piece in front of you. I know, that’s a relief right?

…people who sew for a lifetime carry ideas and the joy of making from one garment to the next. Enjoy, Diane

3 comments

  • Jean Watson: April 05, 2021

    We are in Autumn in Australia, so thought a flannel jacket, coat would be ideal for winter in the sub tropics. Since I moved to Queensland sewing is all a new ball game from a cold winter in Adelaide. It’s was similar to a move from your mid west to California. Thanks for the ideas

  • Mary Glenn: March 09, 2021

    Looks so cozy and comfortable.

  • Darcy Berg: March 07, 2021

    Diane, I have been following you for years. I love everything you show on your website and your blog. Thank you for being such a generous artist. Could you include a link to your blog in your email blasts? It would make it easier for me to do some shopping on your site. I hope you are doing well! Darcy

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