My winter sewing has focused on creating a collection of garments with Kantha Cloth. For most of us, this is the month of chilly weather, new teas and inside projects. Here are some ideas and techniques from my studio time this month.
KANTHA is a type of embroidery craft in the eastern regions of the Indian subcontinent. For centuries, women in Bengal have taken their discarded saris and layered them with kantha stitching to make a light blanket, throw, or bedspread, especially for children. In Sanskrit, the word kantha simply means ‘rags’.
For a great fit: Put the vest on and see where the side seams and back pieces look best. Dropping the front (shown above) and topstitching in onto the back at the sides (leaving a nice slit for more movement) can make a huge difference on lots of body types.
Edges & Hems
Facing pieces were added inside to some of the hem edges. Facings could be added for weight, a shaped, accent edge or finished to the outside of a garment.
A grey & persimmon color throw was used for this I-Ching Jacket/Shirt. I especially loved just 2 solid colors…it really lets the hand stitching stand out. Here are some details that make this collarless version a success.
• Use the Finished Edges- This influenced everything from the direction the pattern pieces are placed, to the shape of the front edge and how the tucks would be sewn. Each front was placed with the stitching in different directions to add interest. An additional horizontal tuck was added towards the bottom to shorten one side of the front, and an outside vertical tuck (on the side with vertical stitching) to accent the asymmetry of the design. The pattern includes a tuck with a hidden pocket.
• Shaping the Center Front Edges- Here is a technique for using the original finished edge on the fabric all the way to the shoulder, AND getting the edges to curve up to the shoulder edge:
1. Cut the front piece out, leaving 1” extra along the shoulder line edge. To get the correct line, re-cut the shoulder edge after you make the dart. Next, place the pattern piece on top of your fabric, lining up along the finished front edge.
2. Fold then sew a dart from the shoulder edge down the front to the turn as in the illustration. The size of the dart will be determined by the shape of the front curve you want to create.
3. Once the dart is sewn and steamed flat, re-cut the shoulder seam as needed. Both front edges can now curve nicely to create the shape called for on the pattern pieces. This is a genius technique you’ll want to use!!
4. A 2-3” wide facings could also be used for finishing the front edges with the seam allowance rolled under and machine or hand stitch to match.
I want to thank each one of you for all the ways you share your passion for textiles & sewing online and in your communities…it is a rich history worth passing on.
Share & Enjoy your Stitching Time. Happy Holidays, Diane