Designing a FaultLines Garment

I am re-visiting each design in my line of sewing patterns this season. I will be sharing construction tips & design ideas to inspire your creative sewing projects.

FaultLines #118 -

 

Wool Jersey Undershirt

FAULTLINES #118- This pattern includes a short jacket with a bias cut undershirt that together, or separately give some unique sewing and wearing options. This is a favorite winter version in plums, rusts and raspberry colors. I added the sleeve (from the jacket) to the wool jersey undershirt and added silk brocade trim and cord tie accents. The jacket shape is beautiful as a short vest.

This lightly padded one is perfect for  winter layering under larger coats. I added a small bias collar in silk organza to the neck edge of the vest for a bit of extra warmth. 

Great Proportions for pairing with pants or skirts:  If you don't think a short jacket is for you....give the FaultLines a try. With the visual break line at the short jacket, this design, full of flattering angles, gives the effect of a longer torso and leg-especially if you create the undershirt and pant or skirt in the same fabric.  Use this link to order your FaultLines #118. I love working with these pieces as a vest. In recycled sweaters or felt. It's just a great layering garment for our winter wardrobes.

 Felted FaultLines Jacket-J.Manzone-

What's your favorite Fabric?  JoAnn Manzone is exploring the FaultLines pattern and creating beautiful felted versions. Want to create your own felted FaultLines garment? 

 FaultLines with tube collar-

vintage kimono fabric-

Collar Option-  The collar in this pattern is an asymmetrical tube. The scarf on the jacket (right) is threaded through the collar. The collar is made as an open tube then topstitched on. The bias-cut undershirt is a beautiful shape, draping the body with great angles. bias. I made it here in a vintage sheer, silk kimono. It's sleeveless so it is the perfect under layer for my menopausal friends!  This was actually a design focus for the pattern....that I hope you enjoy this feature as much as I do!!

Hmong Fabric Jacket with suiting undershirt.

Specialty Fabrics- I especially like making this jacket pattern in a stripe, it highlights the cut of the pieces and how they overlap. This Faultlines Jacket (right) is made for Hmong Fabric from the Golden Triangle. The garment shape really highlights the old embroidered pieces and the scrap fabrics used for filling in.  The stripe undershirt is a mens suiting, and works well with the overall design.

In Brown Linen- Each piece can be textured or collaged, like this brown linen version below.  I used the woven ribbon trim and white hand-stitching  as an accent. The sleeve seam is visible on the back of the arm, and a place for piping or other accents inseam or at the wrist end. For this jacket, I pressed the wrinkles in and pressed each piece to a layer of fusible interfacing to hold the texture in place before before adding stitching lines.  Notice I pressed the wrinkled lines in different directions in each piece to add more interest to the design. Each piece is lined separately. When they are ready to be combined, I have finished the hem edges and fronts, leaving the shoulder, side seams and armholes open. This way of working lets you design and see how all the pieces will relate.

FaultLines Jacket in progress

I like to keep the pieces pinned on my dressform as I work on one. For more inspiration: See the album of FaultLines Garments on my Facebook page, and send us a photo of your FaultLines to add!

I hope you're having a great day in the Studio! 

Diane