New! Shirts 2.0

New! Shirts 2.0

Transforming the Cacicedo Coat Pattern into another collection of great shirts has been a fun project this past month. 

Shirts 2.0 requires the Cacicedo Coat Pattern to start with, and is 12 pages companion of directions, illustrations and photos of my shirts. This PDF is available in as a download and in a paper version in my store. 

Design Play-Here are some of the ways I am exploring silhouette, grain and details using Shirts 2.0.

Fabric Combinations- Alot of the success in sewing is about the fabric combo we start with. I spend a good amount of time arranging and auditioning the fabrics, trims and notions that will make my idea pop. 

With this new summer shirt I am working with one of my Wing ‘n a Prayer Bird Panels. I tend to forgo the obvious center back or center front/symmetrical presentations of a focal design for a more unexpected way of using my special image. In this case, I am playing with the bird, off-center in the back, with some of the rust color coming over one shoulder. I use a dressform to pin fabrics on to mock up a ‘shirt’. I ended up cutting the panel into several strips and really like they way they behave in between other solids. This new one will have a short sleeve that can roll-up for a softer look, so I fold my fabric on the dressform to remind myself about the short sleeve. I want a good amount of natural linen color and white in this shirt too.

On Susie Manley’s vest above, her front off the shoulder placement of the bird is very appealing too. The combination of the bird panel with the striped suiting (in bias collar and other places), is a great it a  more urban look.

I like combining stripes or other textures with vintage linens and smooth solid colors for interest. Buttons and trims, top-stitching or hand stitching? …these are the details that give a design your personal touch.

This striped linen shirt, one I share in the PDF, was a remake from a larger garment. I love the stripes with the floral facings.  Laying out trims, embroidery threads  and buttons really give a peek at the finished shirt to come.

I use the hand-stitching to highlight various seams, hold tucks and accent edges. Love this combo!!!

Time to get started and sew this one up!  Diane


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Dear Sharon Bottini:

Apropos to your comment regarding a dearth of beautiful base fabrics. Gainesville, Florida is not the fashion capital of the world. The mode of dressing popular in our provincial setting is cool, loose with no regard for the quality of the fabric. I happen to love real fabric such as linen and cottons (my favorite), silk and woolens.

I order from Elfriede’s in Boulder, Colorado. My brother lives in Denver and I visited the shop on one of my visits there. I am old so can say others are old (80). Elfriede is old and is shrinking, so don’t wait too long. Who knows if these semi couturier fabrics shops are disappearing.

We are rapid approaching a mediocre populace. As I alluded to earlier, the choice of clothing in Florida are shorts, T-shirts and flip flops. Jack Roger sandals are popular and are a favorite of mine, but I have been told the original owner sold the business thereby compromising the quality we are used to. I did know of a source in Kansas City, Mo, but that closed down after years of business.

I have not done any sewing in the last 5 years due to some problems with my eyes and other parts of my body that do not reflect well on the aging.

Good luck in your pursuit of the esthete.

Claire Noegel

ALWAYS amazed and inspired. Thank you, Diane!

Rose Lee-Bartlett

Where do you find you beautiful base fabrics. The only thing near me is a chain store and I don’t like their clothing fabrics and forget light weight linen…I have ordered some of Marcy Tilton…but would like to be able to audition more before I buy. Your use of what appears to be cottons is also wonderful…thank you

Sharon Bottini

I’ll make it to a class yet….

Karla Roady

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