The URBAN Jacket-

 Working with my new pattern: The Urban Jacket #333

I am loving the silhouette and excited about all the directions we can take this design into our wardrobes!

Fabric Combos- I know I am just getting started on cool combinations for this garment. Vest versions will be sweet lightweight layers for the summertime…while this metallic version will  inspire some fall rain jacket versions!

 Prepping the Parts- This happens as we deepen our experience with everything…from fabric to food. Doing ‘more to everything’ before we put the elements together adds another layer of interest and richness. Here are some of the ways I ‘work the parts first’.

Interfacing-I love fusible knit interfacing…I use it in knit and woven garments and love the structure but soft hand it gives. I keep it on hand and use it in various ways during construction.

• For this version, I used interfacing to finish the welt pocket, holding the seam allowances back flat on the inside of the pocket. By cutting the fusible the shape of the whole pocket area, it re-enforced the welt and gave some added body to the jacket front as well.

• Fusible can be used as a facing: Fusible was stitched (right sides together) in a small 1/4” seam to the outside edge of the collar piece. Next the interfacing was turned to the underside of the collar piece and fused in place to finish that outside edge. Leaving that seamline open gave access to sewing in the hood on in a different way. In the end, that opening was  hand stitched on top of the seamlines on the collar front for a different look… love this kind of unique construction detour!

Fabric Combo's-I combined this hooded version, in a metallic linen, with a map-themed cotton print inside the hood and facings. Knowing that a small amount would peek out inside the pockets was a consideration for my fabric combo too. I can see this jacket with facings and linings in a serious pop of intense color too.

Shaping the linen: Linen is my favorite fabric. It is so malleable and steams beautifully. A medium to heavier weight linen has an almost architectural quality to it.

Ease Stitching and steaming is an example of the way linen can shape and move. Ease Stitching and steaming the cap of these linen sleeves made such a difference in the finished look of the shoulder.

Hand stitching for the Finish- Sometimes that pop of color is stitching thread. In this case, it blends in and repeats the subtle color of the map on the lining print fabric.

• The feature detail of this Jacket is the hand-stitched zipper. Applied on top of the finished front edges, a pewter color embroidery floss was used. To do this, the tails at the top of a zipper can be sewn into the seam at the top and left loose until the end when they are laid on top and stitched down. I re-cycled a vintage zipper with not much tape left at the top edge, so I added a tab of fabric over the end to finish as I stitched the zipper in place.

• I like using various stitches by hand. I repeated the small vertical stitches on the hem of the hood and jacket back.

• This is a very fun design for hardware pieces…from grommets and eyelets and weird zippers to mountain climbing rope and fasteners- Enjoy inventing as your design ideas evolves!

• Drawstrings can be any kind of cord, cool shoe laces, ribbon or trim. Here is a collection of some of the things I considered  for my drawstring. A cut strip of single knit  fabric (like the creme and tan strip in my photo) makes a great drawstring. I painted some hemp trim for the drawstring in this version.     Diane