Working with my new pattern: The Urban Jacket #333
I am loving the silhouette and excited about all the directions we can take this design into our wardrobes!
Fabric Combos- I know I am just getting started on cool combinations for this garment. Vest versions will be sweet lightweight layers for the summertime…while this metallic version will inspire some fall rain jacket versions!
Prepping the Parts- This happens as we deepen our experience with everything…from fabric to food. Doing ‘more to everything’ before we put the elements together adds another layer of interest and richness. Here are some of the ways I ‘work the parts first’.
Interfacing-I love fusible knit interfacing…I use it in knit and woven garments and love the structure but soft hand it gives. I keep it on hand and use it in various ways during construction.
• For this version, I used interfacing to finish the welt pocket, holding the seam allowances back flat on the inside of the pocket. By cutting the fusible the shape of the whole pocket area, it re-enforced the welt and gave some added body to the jacket front as well.
• Fusible can be used as a facing: Fusible was stitched (right sides together) in a small 1/4” seam to the outside edge of the collar piece. Next the interfacing was turned to the underside of the collar piece and fused in place to finish that outside edge. Leaving that seamline open gave access to sewing in the hood on in a different way. In the end, that opening was hand stitched on top of the seamlines on the collar front for a different look… love this kind of unique construction detour!
Fabric Combo's-I combined this hooded version, in a metallic linen, with a map-themed cotton print inside the hood and facings. Knowing that a small amount would peek out inside the pockets was a consideration for my fabric combo too. I can see this jacket with facings and linings in a serious pop of intense color too.
Shaping the linen: Linen is my favorite fabric. It is so malleable and steams beautifully. A medium to heavier weight linen has an almost architectural quality to it.
Ease Stitching and steaming is an example of the way linen can shape and move. Ease Stitching and steaming the cap of these linen sleeves made such a difference in the finished look of the shoulder.
Hand stitching for the Finish- Sometimes that pop of color is stitching thread. In this case, it blends in and repeats the subtle color of the map on the lining print fabric.
• The feature detail of this Jacket is the hand-stitched zipper. Applied on top of the finished front edges, a pewter color embroidery floss was used. To do this, the tails at the top of a zipper can be sewn into the seam at the top and left loose until the end when they are laid on top and stitched down. I re-cycled a vintage zipper with not much tape left at the top edge, so I added a tab of fabric over the end to finish as I stitched the zipper in place.
• I like using various stitches by hand. I repeated the small vertical stitches on the hem of the hood and jacket back.
• This is a very fun design for hardware pieces…from grommets and eyelets and weird zippers to mountain climbing rope and fasteners- Enjoy inventing as your design ideas evolves!
• Drawstrings can be any kind of cord, cool shoe laces, ribbon or trim. Here is a collection of some of the things I considered for my drawstring. A cut strip of single knit fabric (like the creme and tan strip in my photo) makes a great drawstring. I painted some hemp trim for the drawstring in this version. Diane
Has anyone answered Charlotte Cronin’s question yet?? I am wondering about the same things she is referring to.
I have just made a muslin of this pattern, mostly so I check proportions for me.
But now I am really glad I did because I found some steps of the pattern very confusing, often missing markings I would have expected.
I am a very experienced sewist, so I am really surprised at the questions I have.
The first issue I had was with the pleating to attach the hood to the collar. The drawing in the directions shows two sets of pleats on each side of the center seam. I finally settled for one pleat on each side. I also set the collar back from center front about a half inch to achieve that. I now think that was an error. What am I missing?
The second problem I had was deciding how far down from the “point” at the top of the hood to sew the horizontal line that “flattens” the point.
I am both hopeful and fearful that you will all provide me with some obvious answers. Hopeful that I missed something obvious and fearful that I missed something obvious and will now feel really silly.
Inspirational ideas and the absolute perfect pattern for my Marcy Tilton pink raincoat fabric. Something else that just shot up the sewing queue. Off now to order the pattern.
We are here in Taos with Diane and everyone loves this pattern. Lots of modeling and it looks great on different sizes. Another awesome design from Diane.
Love this. Already I see some design ootions with the front faving shape. Will be ordering it.
This is a really great design! I’ve just returned to garment sewing after a 3-1/2 year hiatus, and I’m eager to make artful clothes. I’m looking forward to using your patterns and stencils. Your work continues to inspire me!
Diane, I love this pattern too!
I just bought it too! Along with one of your stencils. Thank you for all of your inspiration!
Amazing as always…..love the Marcy Tilton fabric….I order from her also but didn’t know how the metallic linen would work up. Thank you as always for all the variations on a pattern you show…….sets the creative juices flow
Ok, now I need some metallic linen for my stash! I love all your hand stitching on this jacket. I have been playing with French knots for hems. I find the handiwork very soothing.
Love this pattern, Diane! I just bought it!